Imagine a stone-paved, narrow street lined by wooden
structures with low roofs and “shoji” style doors. Along the small street three Japanese ladies are walking, carrying
parasols and wearing kimonos. This
was an every day scene in Japan prior to centuries ago when the only fashion
trend – for men and women – was the iconic kimono just like it had been for
centuries prior.
In 1853, the US Naval Commodore Matthew Perry arrived in
Japan and “forced” the country to open their ports and engage in international
trading. Until then, Japan had managed
to preserve and protect their closely guarded customs. Western influences started filtering in
and giving way to a loss of interest in the traditional arts and crafts,
including the kimono. The more
practical Western-style clothes took hold pushing the kimono to the “back of
the closet”.
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| beautiful colors! |
It is nearly impossible for the rest of the world to
understand the stature of the kimono in Japanese society. To fully understand its cultural value
one would have to immerse oneself in every aspect of Japan’s history, its
culture, arts and literature.
Moriguchi Kuhihiko (son of Moriguchi Kako (a legend in the field of silk
dying) tries to explain to us the importance of a great kimono:
“A fine kimono is an adornment like the jewels and furs worn
by European women. Although the
form of the garment never changes, a custom-made kimono is a courtier gown and
also an original work by a creative artist. A splendid kimono is apt to be handed down from one
generation to the next like a painting or a piece of jewelry. Kimonos are not created to seasonal
fads, but are designed as raiment that will contribute to Japan’s tradition of
beauty”
Today, the average Japanese woman owns one kimono, at
most. Unless the dress makes a
comeback like some fashion trends do, it is likely that girls who are born
towards the latter part of this century will never own one. And if she finds herself the proud
owner of one of these masterpieces, she will need to go to school to learn how
to wear it. Such knowledge was
traditionally passed on from generation to generation. If you visit Japan today, you will find
an endless array of affordable kimonos in souvenir and fashion stores, but that
is not the kind I am describing here.
I am referring to the kimono that holds great artistic and cultural
value and have been worn by both, men and women, with pride and elegance
throughout history. The kimono
made of the finest hand-painted silk and embellished with intricate
embroideries; a one-of- a-kind masterpiece.
Japan, as a society has a tireless determination to pursue
and achieve perfection in all they do and the art of kimono making is no
exception. The authentic kimono is
made form the finest silk and runs upwards of $10,000, perhaps double that once
all the accessories have been added.
In the simplest of terms, a kimono is a loose robe with long sleeves. But there is nothing simple about the
final product; an exquisite and complex combination created my multiple
elements, each with a specific role.
Here is a list of some of the pieces: the “kanzashi” (hairpiece), the “geta” (wooden sandals),
the “obi” (wide silk sash), the
“obimakura” (small pillow that gives the “obi” its volume and shape on the back
and the “susoyoke” (slip worn under the kimono. Some of the pieces are seasonal or reserved for special occasions
like the “eri-sugata” – a special collar used only during warm weather or the
“haori” – a formal coat. The
process of getting dressed in a kimono is no simple task either and it requires
two people to assemble the outfit perfectly.
The color and pattern selection is taken very
seriously. The person for whom the
kimono is created has an active role in designing and putting his/her touch in
every detail. A kimono defines
financial status, style, taste and personality and it is of upmost importance
that all the pieces are impeccable and fit perfectly together. It is said that the “kimono is not a
kimono until someone wears it and brings it to life”. The colors and prints are chosen according to the season; it
could be a flower or food that represents a period of time during the
year. For example, spring or
summer kimonos the call for light colors and the pattern may be of cherry
blossoms. Somber and dark colors
along with a bamboo or pinecone design would be more appropriate for a winter
kimono.
Each color, print and the placement of such print provide
additional information about the garment. The most formal kimono for married
women, called “kurotomesode” is black with the pattern applied only below the
waistline. The single woman’s
version of this formal kimono, called “furisode”, has longer sleeves and
brighter colors. A “homongi” is a
kimono with the print visible only on seams, sleeves and shoulders. The most casual style is called “komon”
and it is identified by a small design that repeats throughout the entire robe. These are only a few of the
complexities of the hierarchy of the Japanese wardrobe. There are other technicalities such as
the left side of the kimono should always go in front of the right, except when
dressing a corpse for a funeral, in which case the opposite applies. The loose and wide neck was designed
that way on purpose; to show that part of the woman’s body which is considered
the most sensual.
The world of the kimono is a world governed by century-old
rules where everything is meticulously calculated. It is magic and enigmatic. When it comes to designing and creating a kimono nothing is
left to chance, every detail is painstakingly cared for.
Until next time...be happy!!!
