The Kimono; much more than a dress

Imagine a stone-paved, narrow street lined by wooden structures with low roofs and “shoji” style doors.  Along the small street three Japanese ladies are walking, carrying parasols and wearing kimonos.  This was an every day scene in Japan prior to centuries ago when the only fashion trend – for men and women – was the iconic kimono just like it had been for centuries prior.

In 1853, the US Naval Commodore Matthew Perry arrived in Japan and “forced” the country to open their ports and engage in international trading.  Until then, Japan had managed to preserve and protect their closely guarded customs.  Western influences started filtering in and giving way to a loss of interest in the traditional arts and crafts, including the kimono.  The more practical Western-style clothes took hold pushing the kimono to the “back of the closet”. 

beautiful colors!

It is nearly impossible for the rest of the world to understand the stature of the kimono in Japanese society.  To fully understand its cultural value one would have to immerse oneself in every aspect of Japan’s history, its culture, arts and literature.  Moriguchi Kuhihiko (son of Moriguchi Kako (a legend in the field of silk dying) tries to explain to us the importance of a great kimono:

“A fine kimono is an adornment like the jewels and furs worn by European women.  Although the form of the garment never changes, a custom-made kimono is a courtier gown and also an original work by a creative artist.  A splendid kimono is apt to be handed down from one generation to the next like a painting or a piece of jewelry.  Kimonos are not created to seasonal fads, but are designed as raiment that will contribute to Japan’s tradition of beauty”

Today, the average Japanese woman owns one kimono, at most.  Unless the dress makes a comeback like some fashion trends do, it is likely that girls who are born towards the latter part of this century will never own one.  And if she finds herself the proud owner of one of these masterpieces, she will need to go to school to learn how to wear it.  Such knowledge was traditionally passed on from generation to generation.  If you visit Japan today, you will find an endless array of affordable kimonos in souvenir and fashion stores, but that is not the kind I am describing here.  I am referring to the kimono that holds great artistic and cultural value and have been worn by both, men and women, with pride and elegance throughout history.  The kimono made of the finest hand-painted silk and embellished with intricate embroideries; a one-of- a-kind masterpiece. 

Japan, as a society has a tireless determination to pursue and achieve perfection in all they do and the art of kimono making is no exception.  The authentic kimono is made form the finest silk and runs upwards of $10,000, perhaps double that once all the accessories have been added.  In the simplest of terms, a kimono is a loose robe with long sleeves.  But there is nothing simple about the final product; an exquisite and complex combination created my multiple elements, each with a specific role.  Here is a list of some of the pieces: the “kanzashi”  (hairpiece), the “geta” (wooden sandals), the “obi”  (wide silk sash), the “obimakura” (small pillow that gives the “obi” its volume and shape on the back and the “susoyoke” (slip worn under the kimono.  Some of the pieces are seasonal or reserved for special occasions like the “eri-sugata” – a special collar used only during warm weather or the “haori” – a formal coat.  The process of getting dressed in a kimono is no simple task either and it requires two people to assemble the outfit perfectly.   

The color and pattern selection is taken very seriously.  The person for whom the kimono is created has an active role in designing and putting his/her touch in every detail.  A kimono defines financial status, style, taste and personality and it is of upmost importance that all the pieces are impeccable and fit perfectly together.  It is said that the “kimono is not a kimono until someone wears it and brings it to life”.  The colors and prints are chosen according to the season; it could be a flower or food that represents a period of time during the year.  For example, spring or summer kimonos the call for light colors and the pattern may be of cherry blossoms.  Somber and dark colors along with a bamboo or pinecone design would be more appropriate for a winter kimono.

Each color, print and the placement of such print provide additional information about the garment. The most formal kimono for married women, called “kurotomesode” is black with the pattern applied only below the waistline.  The single woman’s version of this formal kimono, called “furisode”, has longer sleeves and brighter colors.  A “homongi” is a kimono with the print visible only on seams, sleeves and shoulders.  The most casual style is called “komon” and it is identified by a small design that repeats throughout the entire robe.  These are only a few of the complexities of the hierarchy of the Japanese wardrobe.  There are other technicalities such as the left side of the kimono should always go in front of the right, except when dressing a corpse for a funeral, in which case the opposite applies.  The loose and wide neck was designed that way on purpose; to show that part of the woman’s body which is considered the most sensual.   

The world of the kimono is a world governed by century-old rules where everything is meticulously calculated.  It is magic and enigmatic.  When it comes to designing and creating a kimono nothing is left to chance, every detail is painstakingly cared for. 

Until next time...be happy!!!